Stefan Vetter, Silvaner Himmelslucke, 2021

Stefan Vetter has quietly redefined what German Silvaner can be. Working biodynamically on some of Franconia’s steepest and most stony sites, he treats this often-overlooked grape with the same seriousness that top growers reserve for Riesling. “Himmelslücke”, his parcel of 50–60-year-old vines on limestone, is a standout in his lineup—and a revelation for anyone new to Silvaner. The 2021 vintage is electric: saline, structured, and mineral to the core. There’s fruit here—green pear, citrus peel, maybe a hint of quince—but it’s the tension and clarity that steal the show. Think of the taut edge of Chablis or the chalky cut of a Loire Chenin, but with its own herbal lift and stony depth. Fermented with native yeasts and aged in neutral barrels on the lees, there’s no adornment, no distraction. Just crystalline fruit, mouthwatering acidity, and a dry finish that lingers with quiet insistence. For fans of lean white Burgundy, Jura whites, or serious Chenin, this is a must-try. Serve i