2021 Vivier, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Look at the cork in Stéphane Vivier’s Pinot Noir and you’ll see he describes his label as “American wines made by a lazy French winemaker.” Whether that’s a remark on the power of great terroir—which the Sonoma Coast undoubtedly is—or faux modesty, there’s nothing lazy about this taut and beautifully detailed Pinot Noir. Maybe the better word would be “effortless,” as in, a great terroir and an outsized talent producing greatness seemingly effortlessly. Vivier has consulted for several high-profile California wineries, including Hyde de Villaine, the combined effort of California’s Hyde family and Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Aubert hand-picked Stéphane to impart the strictest French techniques on their Californian wines, and Vivier clearly holds his personal wines to the same standards. This is “New World” Pinot with a decidedly Old World soul. Where it grows: Vivier’s is a true “indie” label with a disparate array of vineyard sources–all of them blue-chip. The m