2023 Etienne Delarche, Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc "Les Combottes"

The Delarches are in that rare minority of families in Burgundy who never got the memo to triple their prices. Their lesser-known village of Pernand-Vergelesses, in the literal and figurative shadow of Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne, has something to do with that.  And yet—there are only two producers in The French Laundry’s Pernand-Vergelesses section: Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey and Etienne Delarche. Young Etienne expertly vinifies his tiny patch of “Les Combottes” (“the little hollows”) into just a few barrels each year. It’s an insider’s white Burgundy that sharp somms glass-pour—and when their shift is over, they pour a cold, glistening chalice of their own. You should too. Why You'll Love It Pernand-Vergelesses is an undervalued village, and Les Combottes is an underpriced village wine within that village. In a world where $100 village Chassagne-Montrachet is a sad reality, $49  for this “uncrowned” Premier Cru feels illicit. Killer vintage! Jancis Robinson called 2023 “A generous