Joseph Dorbon, “Les Bernardines” Arbois Rouge

When you’re new on the winemaking scene and already being discussed in the same breath as Jura’s finest—which are among the most sought-after labels in the world of sommeliers—you’re doing something right. That’s Joseph Dorbon, and the rapidly growing frenzy for his small lineup of “culty” wines is exhilarating, if not overwhelming.We’re here to tell you the brouhaha is fully justified because (1) these generously priced wines shatter France’s price to quality scale, (2) they read more like polished, high-end Burgundy, and (3) they’re produced in the smallest of quantities, leaving heaps of people empty-handed with each passing vintage. This, of course, is not Joseph’s fault: The man only owns three hectares of vines, of which a third of them are planted to red, and from that he bottles just two cuvées. Today’s vivifying blend of Pinot Noir-Poulsard comes from gnarled old vines in the vineyard of “Les Bernardines” and we believe it to be his finest bottling. We asked you to take a step