Massimo Clerico, Coste della Sesia Rosso, “Ca’ du Leria”

Piedmont is the most exciting and diverse winemaking region in Italy. Truth be told, there are many regions vying for that title (Sicily, Campania, Alto Adige…I could go on), but when push comes to shove, I think Piedmont takes it. Among its many natural gifts is the Nebbiolo grape, arguably the most “noble” native red in Italy, which is available in so many shades of awesome it’s hard to know where to start (or stop).If you’re a Nebbiolo lover, you likely started in the regions of Barolo and Barbaresco, but whatever you do, don’t stop there: Further north in Piedmont, in the foothills of the Swiss-Italian Alps, are a string of mostly tiny wine appellations making a huge impact on the modern Italian wine scene. If you haven’t heard of Gattinara, Ghemme, Bramaterra, or the home of Massimo Clerico—Lessona—you haven’t been paying attention, but the appeal of today’s wine is the same for neophytes and experts alike: It perfectly encapsulates everything that’s special about this region, at