Villa Dora, Lacryma Christi Del Vesuvio Rosso, “Gelsonero”

Today’s wine outperformed some more-expensive, more-famous competition at an Italian wine tasting hosted by SommSelect Editorial Director David Lynch. He recounts that below, along with the details behind this southern Italian showstopper.Some subscribers may recall that we offered the white version of Villa Dora’s Lacryma Christi earlier this year, but the story behind its fanciful name merits repeating: “Lacryma Christi” means “Christ’s Tears,” and refers to wines grown in the volcanic ash of Mount Vesuvius—soils which, according to legend, were fertilized by Jesus’ tears as he wept over the fall of Lucifer from heaven. As I’ve noted before, it’s tempting to dismiss these wines as novelties, and there are instances, including on Vesuvius, when the wines are just that—historically significant but otherwise not especially interesting. But the Ambrosio family of Villa Dora, whose organically farmed vineyards sit within the national park that rings the base of the volcano, take Lacryma C