2021 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red, Napa Valley

96 points Wine Advocate The components of the 2021 Proprietary Red barely changed relative to the barrel sample I tasted last year, with 61% of the fruit being estate grown (Stagecoach and Waters Ranch), with the remainder coming from Upper Range (35%) and Vangone (4%). Dominant scents of cassis mark the nose, joined by hints of dark chocolate, black cherries and pencil shavings. This full-bodied wine is firm and muscular but with enough baby fat that you could try one now if you had a big steak on hand. The lingering, dusty finish adds savory tones of black olive and dried herbs. 2,605 cases produced. Pahlmeyer, under the leadership of Winemaker Katie Vogt since 2019, has emerged as the undisputed keystone in the Gallo firmament, with high pricing and limited production, even relative to the other luxury brands in the family company's portfolio. The top-end wines—Savoir Faire (Chardonnay), Raison d'Être (Cabernet Franc) and Pièce de Résistance (Cabernet Sauvignon)—are limited even by