Clarisse de Suremain, "Coteaux Bourguignons 'Les Noces'" 2022

Perhaps the best way to capture how joyous and singular the wine is would be to reference the oxymoronic tasting notes recorded in real time while enjoying some of 'Les Noces:' "Supremely serious fruit, deeper / light-bodied, earthy presence." Who can make something of this? The wine beguiles and mystifies and sails on contradiction - light but heavy, dark but featherweight, blue but red fruit. A real easy-to-drink-hard-to-describe delight of the kind of serious Burgundian complexity this new fangled 'Côteaux Bourguignons' appellation does not intuitively inspire. Wowzers. 50% Gamay, 50% Pinot Noir from 2 parcels both planted to each variety, one in Volnay, the other Pommard. Clay/limestone soils house the 40 year-old vines. The grapes are destemmed and thereafter undergo a 2-week co-maceration/spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel vat. Coarsely filtered and racked into neutral barrel for a 16-month élevage. Bottled unfined, <20ppm SO2. 12.5%ABV