JACQUES CARILLON PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 2023

RP (88-90) The Wine AdvocateReviewed by: William KelleyThe 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Village is fleshy and demonstrative, bursting with aromas of sweet orchard fruit, bread dough and toasted nuts. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's a giving, open-knit wine. Jacques Carillon picked early September 2023, producing a crop of rather rich, generous wines that's more open-knit and less concentrated than his 2022s. As usual, Carillon pressed whole bunches, decanted and fermented in barrels, the majority of which are supplied by Tonnellerie Mercurey (a pioneer of lighter toasts adapted to riper vintages), along with cameos from Rémond, Séguin Moreau, François Frères, Atelier Centre France, Billon and Bouttes. After a year in barrel, the wines spend six months in tank (the first enamel steel tanks arrived here in 1959, and stainless steel began supplanting them beginning in 1973) before bottling. It's a recipe that hasn't changed in a long time, in the cellars or in the vi