Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay 2023

17.5/20 Jancis Robinson The Brajkoviches’ 3.37-ha vineyard was replanted in 2001 with clone 15. Made in the same way as Coddington and hand-picked over the Feb/Mar bridge. Whole-bunch pressed. Spontaneous fermentation. 100% barrel-fermented in used French oak. 100% malo and 11 months’ maturation in barrel. Very ‘settled’, complex nose. Savoury finish and probably the most burgundian of these Chardonnays. Lemon syrup (not sweet) impression with a light blossomy top note. Real substance and build. It certainly doesn’t seem skinny, despite the lower-than-usual alcohol and has a mineral chewiness on the finish. More elegant, and more citrus, than the Maté’s. JR