Lisini, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

Like some of the otherold-school Montalcino stalwarts we’ve featured here on SommSelect, Lisini wasone of about 20 founding members of the Brunello di Montalcino consorzio which was created in 1967. The property, which covers about150 hectares of land in total, is located in the southwest corner of theMontalcino DOCG, near the hamlet of Sant’Angelo in Colle. The 24 hectares ofvineyards open up toward the south, as is typical here on Montalcino’s “backslope,” yet while conventional wisdom says that wines from this part of thezone skew richer and burlier, Lisini’s perfumed, fine-tuned wines have alwaysdefied that characterization (much like those of Soldera and Poggio di Sotto,which are also on Montalcino’s south side). Without lots of heavy oak influence or excess extract clouding your vision, what you get from this 2015 from Lisini is an exceptionally vivid look at the Sangiovese grape in all its smoky, savory glory. For the Burgundy-heads out there, the analog would be a full-bodied G