Lisini, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

MUSIC ANALOGY ALERT: Lisini Brunello di Montalcino is the wine world’s answer to a timeless album, like the Rolling Stones’ “Let it Bleed” or Miles Davis’ “Kind of Blue.” No matter how many times you revisit it, you’ll never grow tired of it—it’s just that good. Having long believed that one could assemble a cellar full of impeccable, long-aging wines without ever spending more than $100 a bottle, I submit Lisini today as one of a handful of must-have Brunellos for anyone who’s serious about Sangiovese (and not just label-chasing).Although Brunello di Montalcino is billed as one of the world’s most age-worthy red wines, the reality is that very few—and especially not the chunky, ‘modern’ styles that were all the rage in the ’90s and 2000s—actually deliver in their old age. Lisini delivers. I saw it time and again during my career in restaurants: the wines capture the nerve and woodsy perfume of the Sangiovese grape and are aged in large Slavonian oak casks, leaving the more extracted,