Riesling Kabinett Trocken, "Wallufer Falkenberg," JB Becker, Rheingau, Germany, 2014

Vital Signs: Riesling from old vines "alte reben." Walkenberg is the only Grosse Lage in the village of Walluf. Due to its sunny, southwestern exposure and its relatively rich soil, it tends to produce brawny, powerful Rieslings.Uncle Bill's Take: I love the nod to 70s culture below, because this wine definitely evokes the snap-crackle of music on vinyl. Something about it is sepia toned, like an old Polaroid coupled with all the funk of basement shag carpeting. It's not for everyone any more than record players are in a digital age. It takes time to wrap you head around, to tease out its subtle charms in the midst of all that olive brine. But it fully rewards the inquiry and remains all the more enthralling for the effort expended.